Not only has independent jewellery designer Susan Wheeler managed to align her own brand with the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals, she has also pushed the industry more broadly to be more responsible by engaging with, and occasionally exerting pressure on, some of its most powerful players.

“In terms of responsibility, if you’re doing a maximalist ring with five different gems, each one is sourced from a traceable miner and you’re using Fairmined gold — having these gemstones be high value and precious is good for the miner as long as they’re getting their fair share.” Susan Wheeler

“Gold and diamonds are both very exploitable,” said Susan Wheeler, a Chicago-based jewelry designer and ethical-sourcing advocate. “Consumers need to know they could be funding the war in Ukraine,” she added, if they buy from stores that don’t validate their supply chain.”

Virtu Gem gives artisanal miners, cutters, and traders formal access to international markets and began as a project of Wheeler’s nonprofit Responsible Jewelry Transformative (RJT). Virtu Gem’s programs also offer training in cutting and basic gemology and help miners improve safety, labor, and environmental conditions at the mines, all with a focus on women.

Gold mining is destroying the Amazon, and policies or strategies jewellery companies may have in place to improve their sourcing practices aren’t going far enough to stop it, experts say.

“This is the red flag. Gold is where we should be focusing,” says Susan Wheeler, designer at her eponymous jewellery brand and founder of the Chicago Responsible Jewellery Conference, which is regarded as a leading voice on sustainability in the jewellery industry.

Sarah Treanor: So what do you want to see, Susan, in terms of changes to hurdles and challenges in the sector?

Susan Wheeler: Market access and a fair price for what they're mining. There's governments creating space, legal space. Support for artisanal and small-scale miners is very important. Artisanal small-scale mining is illegal in many countries throughout the world still, and then that really doesn't leave the individual a safe way to earn a livelihood from artisanal small-scale mining.

Virtu Gem gives artisanal miners, cutters, and traders formal access to international markets and began as a project of Wheeler’s nonprofit Responsible Jewelry Transformative (RJT). Virtu Gem’s programs also offer training in cutting and basic gemology and help miners improve safety, labor, and environmental conditions at the mines, all with a focus on women.

Gold mining is destroying the Amazon, and policies or strategies jewellery companies may have in place to improve their sourcing practices aren’t going far enough to stop it, experts say.

“This is the red flag. Gold is where we should be focusing,” says Susan Wheeler, designer at her eponymous jewellery brand and founder of the Chicago Responsible Jewellery Conference, which is regarded as a leading voice on sustainability in the jewellery industry.

Sarah Treanor: So what do you want to see, Susan, in terms of changes to hurdles and challenges in the sector?

Susan Wheeler: Market access and a fair price for what they're mining. There's governments creating space, legal space. Support for artisanal and small-scale miners is very important. Artisanal small-scale mining is illegal in many countries throughout the world still, and then that really doesn't leave the individual a safe way to earn a livelihood from artisanal small-scale mining.